Yesterday, I talked about our office redesign and promised that today I would show how we made the drapes in our office for under $30. These drapes are a basic panel. They’re lined and have a rod pocket for the curtain rod to go through. This also gathers the top of the drape. They’re super easy to make.
First of all, you’re going to need the fabric for the drapes themselves and the fabric for the lining. For the body of our drapes, we purchased 5 1/8 yards of 60 inch wide interior fabric. When we were shopping for ours JoAnn Fabrics was having a sale where all clearance fabrics were 50% off. We paid $3 a yard for it. The 5 1/8 yards is enough to make 2 84 inch long panels. You’ll want to adjust based on the number and length of panels you need. I’ll show you how in a minute. We also purchased 5 1/8 yards of draping lining fabric. We purchased plain white cotton lining. You can find this in the decorating fabrics section at JoAnn Fabrics as well. Again, we purchased it during a 50% off sale. It’s usually 60″ wide as well and you’ll need the same amount of lining fabric as you will drapery fabric.
Next, you’ll want to cut your fabric. Here’s the part where you can figure out how much fabric to buy if you want to make more panels or make them shorter. For each panel, you’ll need to add 7 inches to the finished length. This is 3 1/2 inches for the hem at the bottom and 3 1/2 inches for the rod pocket. A wider rod pocket helps the drape slide along the rod easily and creates softer gathers at the top. For our drapes, we wanted 84 inch long panels so we cut two pieces of fabric 91 inches long. Using that number, you can figure out your fabric needs. Take the length of drapes you want to make, add 7 inches and then multiply by the number of panels you want to make. Now divide this number by 36 and round up to the nearest 1/8 yard.
After you’ve cut your drapery fabric, you’ll need to cut the lining. You’ll cut it the same length as the drapery fabric, in our case 91 inches. Now, here’s the trick. You need to get your lining so that its 4 inches less wide than your drapes. We were using 60 inch wide fabric for our drapes so we cut the lining down to 56 inches wide. You will want to use a straight edge and rotary cutter or some other method to keep the cut straight and square.
Now we’re ready to put the drapes together. First, we’re going to sew the bottom hem on both the lining and the drapery fabric. We used our serger to make a mock blind hem. Here’s what the mock blind hem looks like from the wrong side (this is a scrap not the actual drapes which is why the stripes don’t line up):

Example of the mock blind hem made by a serger.
Notice how the raw edge is overlocked. The threads the overlock the raw edge also catch the fold of the hem. When pressed flat, this looks very much like a regular blind hem from the front.
If you don’t have a serger, turn up 1/2 inch of the raw edge to the wrong side. Then turn up 3 inches. Now top stitch the top edge. If you have a serger and want to do a mock blind hem, you’ll need a blind hem foot. Here’s a photo of what the one for our Babylock looks like:

Blind hem foot for our Babylock serger.
Consult the manual for your serger for the exact settings but on our Babylock, you thread both lower and upper loopers and only use the right hand needle (3 thread serging). The cutting blade should be engaged. Now the secret to doing the mock blind hem is to prepare your fabric properly. I’m going to try to describe this and then I’ll post a photo with some helpful arrows to help explain it. With the wrong side of your fabric facing up, turn up the full 3 1/2 inches of hem allowance. Now you’re going to turn 3 inches back under to the right side. You’ll have an accordion style fold with 1/2 inch of fabric at the raw edge sticking out from the fold. Here’s a photo which I hope will help to explain this step:

How to fold the fabric to sew a mock blind hem.
Now, you’ll guide this through your serger folded just like this. There’s a long arm on the blind hem foot. The fold in this diagram should be lined up against this. The cutting blade will trim off the raw edge and overlock it. Here’s a photo of how the fabric goes through the serger:

Sewing the mock blind hem on the serger. Line the fold up with the "arm" on the presser foot.
Unfold the hem and press flat. Repeat this for the lining. Now, on your drapery fabric turn 2 1/2 inches on each side to the wrong side and press. Open the fold back up and with right side together and the bottom hems lined up, sew one side of the lining to the drapery fabric using a 1/2 inch seam. The top and bottom edges should line up. Pull the edge of the lining fabric to line up with the other side of the drapery fabric. Now sew that seam with a 1/2 inch seam as well. The drapery fabric is longer than the lining fabric so when we turn the drapes right side out, the 2 inches on either side of the draper fabric will turn to the inside. (See photo of finished drapes at the end of the post). Now, sew a 1/2 inch seam across the top edge. Turn the drapes right side out and press. Now you have a rectangle of drapery fabric that is lined. Both the lining and the drapes are hemmed separately.
Finally, you need to make the rod pocket. Turn 3 inches of the top to the wrong side. Top stitch through all thickness near the edge. You should have a 3 inch “pocket” now for the rod to slide through. Here’s some photos of the finished product.

Office drapes - lined with a rod pocket
Here’s the top of the finished drapes. You can kind of see the top stitching below the rod that holds the rod pocket together.

Lining on the office drapes
And here’s the drapes turned back so you can see the lining. Notice the blind hem at the bottom and on the sides the drapery fabric pulls back to the wrong side creating a facing on the sides.
Hopefully, this little guide will show you how to make your own lined drapes. Let me know how if this guide helps and how your drapes turn out.